Types Shawl

1 types

1.1 kashmir shawls
1.2 pashmina or kar amir
1.3 do-shalla
1.4 namda , gubba
1.5 knit shawls
1.6 kashmiri shawls
1.7 stole

types
the kashmir shawls

kashmir india s northernmost state , point through ancient india passed world. kashmir shawl evolved local expertise had greater fame other indian textile.

pashmina or kar amir

shawl weavers in kashmir circa 1903.

the majority of woollen fabrics of kashmir, , particularly best quality shawls, , still made of pashm or pashmina, wool of capra hircus, species of wild asian mountain goat. hence shawls came called pashmina. fine fleece used shawls grows under rough, woolly, outer coat of animal; under-belly, shed on approach of hot weather. materials of inferior grade of wool of wild himalayan mountain sheep or himalayan ibex. however, best fleece wool soft, silky , warm of wild goats, , painstakingly gathered shrubs , rough rocks against animals rub off fleece on approach of summer. undoubtedly soft fleece wool made famous , coveted ring shawls in mughal times. unfortunately inferior , second rate wool taken domesticated sheep , goats provide of wool used today on looms of kashmir.

the needle-worked amlikar or amli, made pashmina wool shawl embroidered on needle on plain woven ground. colours commonly seen on pashmina shawls yellow, white, black, blue, green, purple, crimson , scarlet. design motifs formalised imitations of nature leaf, flower , tree designs mentioned above; done in rich colours.

the embroidery stitch employed rather parallel darning stitch , allowed penetrate entire fabric.

the outlines of design further touched , emphasized silk or woollen thread of different colours run round finer details; stitch used @ angle overlapping darn stitch, stitches used minute , fine individually can seen unaided eye difficulty. when pashmina wool used embroidery work, made blend intimately texture of basic shawl material difficult insert fine needle between embroidery stitches , basic fabric.

do-shalla

the emperor akbar great admirer of shawls of kashmir. began fashion of wearing them in duplicate, sewn back, under surfaces of shawls never seen. during time desired shawls worked in gold , silver thread or shawls border ornamented fringes of gold, silver , silk thread.

the do-shala, name designates ( two-shawl ), sold in pairs, there being many varieties of them. in khali-matan central field quite plain , without ornamentation. char-bagan made of 4 pieces in different colours neatly joined together; central fluid of shawl embellished medallion of flowers. however, when field ornamented flowers in 4 corners have kunj.

perhaps characteristic of kashmir shawls 1 made patchwork. patterns woven on looms in long strips, twelve eighteen inches in length , 1 half 2 inches in width. these design strips, made on simple , primitive looms, cut required lengths , neatly , expertly hand sewn invisible stitches , joined sewing plain central field piece. variation, pieces may separately woven, cut in various shapes of differing sizes , expertly sewn , further elaborated embroidery. there difference between these 2 types: while patchwork loom shawls made separate narrow strips, patchwork embroidered shawls consists of number of irregularly shaped pieces joined together, each 1 balancing predominant colour scheme of shawl.

namda , gubba

the basic material gubba milled blanket dyed in plain colour. embroidery bold , vivid in designing , done woollen or cotton threads. gubbas have more of folk flavour blankets cut , patched geometric patterns, limited, embroidery on joining , open space. more appliqué work. colours bright , attractive. cheap , used dewan covering or floor covering—namdas.

knit shawls

hesquiat woman wrapped in shawl.

triangular knit lace shawls knitted neck down, , may or may not shaped. in contrast, faroese lace shawls knitted bottom , contain centre gusset. each shawl consists of 2 triangular side panels, trapezoid-shaped gusset, edge treatment, , shoulder shaping.

kashmiri shawls

shawls made in kashmir occupy pre-eminent place among textile products; , them , imitations western looms specific importance attaches. kashmir shawl characterized elaboration of design, in cone pattern prominent feature, , glowing harmony, brilliance, depth, , enduring qualities of colours. basis of these excellences found in fine, soft, short, flossy under-wool, called pashm or pashmina, found on shawl-goat, variety of capra hircus inhabiting elevated regions of tibet. there several varieties of pashm, finest strict monopoly of maharaja of kashmir. inferior pashm , kerman wool — fine soft persian sheep s wool — used shawl weaving @ amritsar , other places in punjab, colonies of kashmiri weavers established. of shawls, apart shape , pattern, there 2 principal classes: (1) loom-woven shawls called tiliwalla, tilikar or kani kar — woven in 1 piece, more in small segments are. sewn such precision sewing quite imperceptible; , (2) embroidered shawls — amlikar — in on ground of plain pashmina worked needle minute , elaborate pattern. encyclopaedia britannica, 1911

stole

stole, designed mme. jeanne paquin (french, 1869–1936)



dorota rabczewska fur collar

a stole woman s shawl, formal shawl of expensive fabric used around shoulders on party dress or ball gown.

a stole narrower typical shawl, , of simpler construction cape; being length of quality material, wrapped , carried shoulders or arms. lighter materials such silk , chiffon finished, is, cropped, hemmed , bound; heavier materials such fur , brocade lined well.

a stole can mean fur or set of furs, (usually fox) worn stole suit or gown; pelage or skin, of single animal (head included) used street dress while formal wear finished length of fur using skins of more 1 animal used; word stole stands alone or used in combination: fur stole, mink stole, namesake of dreamlander mink stole.